For our first European vacation together, Josh and I spent eight days in the Czech Republic admiring historic architecture, walking dozens of miles on cobblestone streets, and eating our way through Prague, Kutná Hora, and Český Krumlov. From koláče to poppy seed gelato, mushroom goulash to pizza, here are the best things I ate during my time in the Czech Republic.
1. Strawberry rhubarb koláče, Kolacherie (Prague)
On our first full day in Prague, we did a food and beer tour with Eating Europe to get an introduction to Czech culture, history, and cuisine. My favorite item we ate was the strawberry strawberry rhubarb koláče from Kolacherie, a trendy bakery that puts a creative, modern spin on the classic Czech specialty. The pastry was light and tender, and the tangy farmer’s cheese contrasted beautifully with the understated sweetness of the berries and the streusel topping. I actually returned a few days later on my own to try the more traditional poppy seed flavor, which was also tasty and deserves an honorable mention.
2. Apple strudel, U Špirků (Prague)
A close runner up for favorite item on our Eating Europe food tour was the final dish, an apple strudel at U Špirků, a restaurant that has been in business since 1870. The tiny, shredded bits of apple were infused with warm spices, and the raisins were so plump and juicy that I actually enjoyed them (usually raisins in a dessert is a no-go for me). The caramel sauce on the side was lovely, too.
Although apple strudel is originally from Austria, it's a Czech menu staple due to centuries of rule by Austria's Hapsburg dynasty.
3. Poppy seed gelato, Crème de la Crème (Prague)
Crème de la Crème is a Prague gelato chain with several locations. Although they have classic flavors, they're best known for their creative options, some of which riff on Czech cuisine. The poppy seed gelato is wonderfully smooth and creamy, with a deep poppy flavor. It reminded of the filling of the poppy seed kokosh I enjoyed in Montreal, but in gelato form. The chocolate sea salt caramel flavor was a nice complement.
4. Passionfruit cheesecake, Gardens Restaurant (Prague)
We stopped by Gardens Restaurant for lunch because I wanted to try their vetrnik, a Czech pastry filled with whipped cream and caramel (recommended by Adventurous Kate). Sadly, they were sold out of vetrnik, but what I ordered instead may have been even better: an exquisite passionfruit cheesecake. The passionfruit topping had such a concentrated fruit flavor I felt like I was in the tropics, the fresh fruit garnishes were perfectly ripe, and the cheesecake had a delicate, luxurious texture somewhere in between a New York-style and a fluffy standard U.S. cheesecake.
5. Punch cake, Grand Cafe Orient (Prague)
Our trip coincided with a heat wave, and many Czech buildings don't have air conditioning—including the historic House of the Black Madonna that houses the Grand Cafe Orient. The cafe has a Cubist-themed interior that replicates the original decor from 1912, and some of the menu items are Cubist-themed as well, like the checkerboard punch cake. Each color was a different flavor (lemon, cherry, or chocolate), and they were all quite boozy and extra-moist. The thin layer of almond icing added an extra boost of sweetness, although the chocolate decoration perched on top melted in the 95 degree heat before I got a chance to snap a photo.
6. Mushroom goulash with potato pancakes, Čtyři Sestry (Kutná Hora)
We had planned to explore the picturesque town of Kutná Hora after visiting the nearby Sedlec Ossuary (a.k.a. the Bone Church). It was so hot that all we managed was lunch at Čtyři Sestry, but what a lunch. The mushroom goulash with potato pancakes was the only vegetarian option on the weekly menu, and I was initially a bit concerned about eating a hearty dish in the midday heat. However, the patio was shady and the goulash had a rich, umami flavor without being heavy. The sweet peppers moderated the heat level, and the potato pancakes were perfect for sopping up every bit of the sauce.
Although goulash originated in Hungary, it is popular in the Czech Republic due to rule by the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1867-1918.
7. Breakfast buffet, Hotel Bologna (Prague)
The five breakfasts we ate at Hotel Bologna were such a treat. The food on the breakfast buffet wasn't fancy, but everything was prepared with high-quality ingredients and thoughtfully presented. There were options to appeal to travelers from around the world: rice for Asian guests, cold cuts and hard rolls for Germans, fresh fruit for the Americans. The whole grain breads were fabulous, and there was a build-your-own yogurt bowl station. Each day of our stay featured different desserts—my favorite was the medovník, a honey cake layered with caramel whipped cream and coated with chopped walnuts.
8. P1, Krumlovská Picka (Český Krumlov)
By the time we arrived in the town of Český Krumlov I was ready for a break from Czech cuisine, and Krumlovská Picka delivered. The P1 is one of the pizzeria's handful of vegetarian options, topped with crushed tomatoes, mozzarella, Parmesan, and fresh basil. It had the distinctive chewy crust, bouncy fresh mozzarella, and soupy center of a Neapolitan-style pizza. The slight smoky flavor of the crust contrasted nicely with tartness of the tomatoes. As an added bonus, the restaurant's casual seating area is tucked away from the street, with a view of the river.
9. Old Bohemian vegetarian feast, Krčma U Dwau Maryí (Český Krumlov)
I'm not a stickler about it, but I do try to limit my meat consumption for health and environmental reasons. I found that challenging with Czech cuisine because it's quite meat-focused, and often the only vegetarian option at a traditional Czech restaurant is a slab of deep-fried cheese. But maybe those restaurants aren't traditional enough: Krčma U Dwau Maryí takes its inspiration from medieval times, when most Czechs ate a whole grain and vegetable-rich diet. My Old Bohemian vegetarian feast included some anachronistic elements (potatoes were imported from the Americas after the medieval period and I'm pretty sure tossed salad wasn't a thing in the 1300s) but it was interesting to sample dishes made with ingredients I'm not very familiar with, like buckwheat and millet.
10. Lemon poppy seed cake, Hotel Mýln (Český Krumlov)
The breakfast buffet at Hotel Mýln was decent, although not quite at the level of Hotel Bologna. However, I did adore the lemon poppy seed cake. The cake contained such a density of poppy seeds that I initially thought it was gingerbread due to its dark color. It was much more lemon-forward than I expected thanks to a zest-infused glaze and far more tender than the dry lemon poppy seed baked goods I'm used to in the U.S.
11. Hummus bowl, Drunken Coffee (Český Krumlov)
Drunken Coffee was our favorite restaurant in Český Krumlov thanks to the relatively budget-friendly, high-quality food and beautiful location with views of the castle and river. My hummus was freshly made, with a silky texture and generous garnish of sesame seeds, microgreens, and chopped tomato and cucumber. I still had quite a bit of hummus left over after I had eaten all of the pita slices, so I happily finished the hummus with a spoon.
12. Adjarian khachapuri, SUN.DAY terrace (Prague)
By the final night of our trip we had eaten plenty of Czech food, so we booked a reservation at SUN.DAY terrace, which serves Georgian cuisine. We had fond memories of khachapuri from our meal at Kachka in Portland, and this version may have been even better. The bread was wonderfully pillowy, the cheese was beautifully browned, and stirring in the egg and butter created the perfect creamy, cheesy, salty mixture. It was a fabulous end to our time in the Czech Republic.